as title.
ErgoDox EZ Configurator

Hi,

I builded Rev1.2 with a few parts switched (Different LEDs because Kailh switches, different SMD LEDs SK6812 because they seemed a good option for the ws2812b). I finally installed all parts and also got my self-made TRRS cable running (I Tested the connections and there is no error in the cable).
My qmk setup:

multibuild.keymap=default
user.keyboard=ergodash/rev1
user.keymap=makanu

And the keymap makanu is at the moment just a copy of the default keymap.

When I use the command qmk flash, the command ends up with Detecting USB port, reset your controller now... and pressing the reset button doesn't do anything.

Additional I recognized that the switch LEDs on the right side are dimmed. This also happens if I switch master side.

Any hint where I should start measuring with a multimeter, to provide further informations?

I was just finishing up my Ergodash and wanted to test the backlight LEDs before I went ahead and soldered all 34 onto the boards. I noticed that the right side LEDs don't seem to light up, but the left side (my master side in this case) appear to all work as expected. I loaded up the greenshadowmaker keymap, but I don't really see any sort of configuration that would indicate that only the left side should be backlit.

Before I go and desolder the mosfet, I wanted to double check that there isn't any firmware options I should check. Additionally, I'm 99% sure that the polarity is correct on the 3 LEDs I installed on the right. I even tried soldering one in with the reverse polarity and one with the correct polarity just to prove to myself that I've got them in right!

Thanks again for any help!

I have some trouble to find the switches. There are some reseller like mouser or digikey wit a decend price, but the transport costs are absurdly high for part in the cents area.

I also never saw this kind of switches around europe.

Any Ideas for alternative switches, which are as best available around the world?

Hello,

I built this board yesterday and have been having some issues. First I cannot figure out how to turn the LEDs on. I flashed my custom .hex file to the keyboard but other than that i cannot get the lights to turn on. I update the file like the instructions say but i'm not sure how they're supposed to populate to the board itself.

Secondly i've been having some issues getting keys to work sometimes. For example when i built the board, I couldn't get my 7 key to work, i thought I had soldered it incorrectly but everything else works. Now the 7 works fine and the enter key doesn't work without changing anything. Also sometimes the keys need to be pressed a few times before they'll register with the computer. Any assistance would be greatly appriciated, thank you!

In the japanese shopping list, there is only one spacer (6mm):

M2×5mm ねじ × 22

M2×8mm ねじ × 6

M2×6mm スペーサー × 14
http://www.hirosugi-net.co.jp/shop/c/c10141010/

The english build guide mentions 5mm and 6mm:

Install the 5mm and 6mm spacers from the top。

https://github.com/omkbd/ErgoDash/blob/master/Doc/build-en.md#11-case-assembly

I assume the shopping list is correct and this is an error in the build guide?

If there is a future revision of the Ergodash keyboard, would you consider increasing the space size of the holes for the Pro-micro to permit the use of sockets for the pro-micros? The current fit is quite snug and leaves no room for sockets to be added.

Since pro-micros are hard to de-solder and the keyboard and led connections are covered by the pro-micros, it would be very useful to be able to pull the boards off as needed.

An example is from Keebio. https://keeb.io/products/peel-a-way-sockets-for-pro-micros

MJ-4PP-9 TRRS jack seems not to be available nor shippable (without orbitant shippingcosts) to europe. Does anyone got an alternative? Else i'd fork the repo to implement an other jack.

watched your design. But there is a problem I can't understand. It is located at the way you connect the led lights WS2812B. According to datasheed here , the function of pin 2 is "Control data signal output" and pin 4 is "Control data signal input", but you're connected backwards. Is there a problem here?

I have board revision 1.2 and I found the building documentation (English) very confusing and mixed with japanesse.
For example, there are two possible locations for the pro-micro, but it is not specified which side the pro-micro should be attached
for example, it says:

"but pay attention when installing the Pro Micro!!!!!! Note: The below diagrams are for rev 1.1. For rev 1.2. and up, the part placement is slightly different."

for the master and slave in the latest firmware ( after this date 2019/5/5): Do I need to do any soldering (jumper) as it is shown below or not?

Hey, this is a little off topic, sorry for that. I'm having issues sourcing the MJ-4PP-9 TRRS jack in Europe (or anywhere outsite of Japan, to be precise).

I ordered some 4 pol TRRS jacks, but the connections on those will require some hacking on the PCB – so any tips where I could find the MJ-4PP-9 internationally would be greatly appreciated!

The ones I ordered are these:
FC68125
https://cdn-reichelt.de/documents/datenblatt/C160/4%20POLE%20JACKS.pdf

I did find these on AliExpress, which are very similar:
https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/Made-in-China-PJ-320A_C12569.pdf

There are some differences in the spacing of the pins (around 0.2mm), but that could fit.

Hi there!
I'm trying to modify the case cuts to be an hybrid MX/Alps compliant and they only seem to need a little tweak: the upper right screw hole is too close to the right switch and i guess it will overlap with an Alps switch wing.

Yo can seem my edits there in the upper top piece.

I think the hole in the pcb hole is it wide enough and could work as is and maybe only moving the hole a milimeter to the left on the cases pieces will do.
Could you consider these kind of changes on a future release or variation of the pcb?

As is. I have more interested with the mini type of ergodash. Hope the kicad pcb files could be upload.

Hi,

So, I have built this about 2 months ago now, but RGB LEDs and MOSFETs took a while to get here. I have never had any issues before this. I soldered the main head first and had everything working as soon as I updated my firmware to have a RGB_TOGG. However, when I soldered the slave hand I couldn't get it to light up. I considered the problem could be MOSFET/ MOSFET soldering issue, so I unsoldered it and replaced it for a new one, but still no luck. So I soldered some LEDs to some keys to test the behaviour.

So, now my current situation is:
When I connect the main hand or both only main hand RGB works and both hands 3mm LED work. However, I can only toggle off the LEDs on the main hand.

All keys are working perfectly, RGB controls to the main hand also work.

I have a video to illustrate the 3mm led only being turned off on the main hand issue.

[EDIT 1] just to clarify, changing the USB cable to my right hand does not change the behaviour. Probably should have changed the issue name to right hand LED not working instead of Slave hand.

I want to mount more led on the top edge, but I don't know how to connect the power cord and controller cord?

I flashed the firmware in this repo for both sides. Then I connect the keyboard into my computer and start Via. But it keeps searching for devices...
BTW, I see some posted that Ergodash is supported in via but cannot find the firmware in the official document here

I've seen in your twitter account @omkbd pictures of PCBs version 1.3 and 2.0, this last one with hot-swappable switches and what it looks like a usb-c interconnect between the two sides. Do you have any plan on releasing the source for those revisions or are just private iterations not ready to be shared?

Have you ever considered one of these for the ergodash? Apologies that I’m suggesting rather than attempting it myself, I’m still new to circuits/kiCad.

The Preonic’s rotary encoder is pretty neat and I’d love to replace maybe my top row innermost keys (currently -, + in the laser image) with a rotary encoder. Alternatively, it could be thumb accessible on the snap-off section.

The Preonic uses a twisting stick style dial, but with an ortho being so friendly to home row users it’d be slick if it were a drum you could roll with a thumb or forefinger without flexion. Like a Logitech G810 but the width of a keycap :)

Since Jack added one to Preonic I’m guessing QMK support is there too.

Thanks for reading and thanks again for your generosity!

LEDS are off when I plug the keyboard and don't turn on on the RGB Toggle key press.

This is my first keyboard build, so it might be some stupid mistake, but I'm pretty sure my keyboard soldered correctly, LED jumpers are bridged according to manual and I just refreshed soldering joints on MOSFET, and LEDs. They seem fine.

Here is the photo of the left (master) half of the keyboard:

Hi, the link for Ergodash Firmware is broken. Please, check it out.

https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/ergodash

Thanks!

Hi, I’m hoping to print the ergodash. Thanks so much for posting your design!

Are the gerber files in the subfolder of V1.2 all I need to submit to the main chinese pcb printers? Or do I need to export other files from KiCad.

I know a bit about cables/3d/programming but I’ve never designed/printed circuit boards. Apologies is this is obvious/already covered.

Thanks again for your design and generosity.

Hi everyone,

I'm looking to build an ergodash keyboard, and the kit is sell (here) with 2 different MCU (the others are wireless) : a Helios Controller and a Svlinky VIK RP2040 Controller.

I'm willing to go with the Svlinky (because of the VIK port - I want to try to plug a trackpad), but it says it's an RP2040 MCU.
So I'm wondering : does the current QMK config of the ergodash is compatible with this MCU ?
Or should I go with the Helios if I don't want to tweak the existing firmware ?

I've seen that when dealing with RP2040, you need to flash a bit differently.

Thanks !

PS: I actually own a Corne, with a Pro Micro, running well and which I easilly flash when needed.

Is EE_Hands supported on the pcb? I cant find anything about it in the documentation. Usually I would tie on one side a pin to high and on the other side to ground.
are any of these pins broken out?

I am using elite-c so I have extra pins and can do it if the pcb does not support it.

I can't find the IRLML6344TRPbF on my local vendors' pages so I wanna look for possible substitutes before I shop and build. What can I substitute it with?

Hello,
Just having some issues with the build.

1. I'm using zeal stabs and I can't seem to place two of them on the thumb cluster. They seam to overlap just enough to not allow both to properly seat. Just wondering if anyone has has used these successfully in this orientation, or do I have to use the cherry stabs

2. Even after using just one zeal stab, the acrylic switch plate doesn't seem to sit well on it making it rather challenging to sit switches on the plate and into the pcb for soldering.

Just curious if anyone else having these issues with the cherry stabs before I go out and order a few.

Thanks

the parts list says 66-70 keys yet, if all 5 keys in the thumb cluster were used, there would be 72. is there some design factor that prevents all 5 from being used?

Hi,

I'm interested in implementing this design, but I'm curious what is rev2 mentioned in latest firmware change? Is PCB different from available in this repo?

I got in on the most recent group buy and grabbed a piezo speaker to add to my build (since the group buy page listed it as an option) but I don't see it mentioned anywhere in the build guide. I did look back through the past issues for this repo and noticed issue #7. The only comment in there was that the speaker isn't support while using the RGB LEDs. Is this still true?

Thanks for the help as well as maintaining this project!

just like ErgoDox's "Change It Youself" product, it use the hot plug socket to let user
can easily change switches.

Hi!, does anyone know what is the height of the m2 spacers?

Please update Build Guide / Parts List

1. M2×6mm spacer. Should say "M2×6mm threaded spacer"
2. When using the full-size (i.e. both thumb cluster buttons), you need 16 spacers, not 14.
3. Need M2x5mm screws x26 instead of x22

When I open arcgis 10.5 I just have to click for the software to bug

It appears There is a Speaker on the PCB ver 1.1, what is the recommended part number?

I've been struggling to get the right half of my ergodash to work, and at this point I cannot figure out if it's a hardware or a software issue. When I plug the keyboard in, the LEDs turn on, and the keys on the left side works, while the keys on the right hand side does nothing.

My situation is:

• LEDs on both sides turn on when I plug in the TRRS cable
• I'm using sparkfun pro micros
• TRRS pins have continuity (checked with a multimeter) between all four pins. Maybe someone could tell me which pins on the pro micro they are connected to so I can check all the way from pro micro to pro micro? Can't really follow the traces.
• Both halfs work if I plug them in directly with the USB cable
• I've tried various settings for qmk to try to troubleshoot, but nothing has made a difference, and right now the only tweak I have is RGBLIGHT_ENABLE = yes in rules.mk
• building and flashing with sudo make ergodash/rev1:default:avrdude on latest qmk master (eafd38e2a16cd00e95e00c5ca4efc364d3ccf3e4)

Are you able to point me towards what I could do to try to troubleshoot, and/or confirm that I've got everything soldered in the right place?

Front:

Back:

Appreciate the help/time!

I sent the v1.2 gerber files to print in jlcpcb and they asked me to change the file to increase the size of the connections to at least 4mm each.

This could be useful to future users that will send the file to print in this store.