The Wiki page for the 0.25in 2 Flute, Tungsten, Up Spiral Bit links to a bit sold on Home Depot that is in actuality a 0.1875in cut diameter. The Min Chuck Size Required is 1/4 in. but the Cut Diameter is 0.1875 in.

I assume this bit should actually be a 0.25in cut diameter? Could you please link to the proper router bit?

Where to place the motor on the motor mounts is a little unclear. I would like to add recesses for the screws to indicate where they should go and a second hole which the chain passes through after going over the sprocket to encourage consistent placement.

I finally got around to assembling my maslow cnc and there are hardware differences between the site instructions and what I received.

Is there an updated assembly guide for the new hardware?

Please... I'm dying to finish assembly.

The Mechanics/Machine.skp and Mechanics/TempSeld.skp cannot be opened with Sketchup (latest version: 17.2.2554) on OSX (10.11.6)

Sketchup is willing to export a 3D file in .dae format which is viewable using common Linux tools. The file isn't useful for CAD but does allow rotating the model to get an idea of what's involved.
Machine.dae.zip

docs say
Step 10: Attach Cup Hook to top of Plywood Sheet

Attach 1 Cup Hook (found in the Small Hardware Bag) to the top left corner of the sheet of plywood below and slightly to the right of the motor shaft.

Pic show attaching to 2x4.. I assume photo is right

PS. I am sorry if I am putting this in the wrong place

https://github.com/MaslowCNC/Mechanics/wiki/0.25in-2-Flute,-Tungsten,-Up-Spiral-Bit

Instead of showing info on the 2 flute bit is returns me to home (parent menu). Thanks!

In the file "All_Parts_Laid_Out.svg" the patterns (2) for the part called 'AngleBrace1.svg' has a sub-mm inconsistency in its long sides.

This doesn't seem to exist in the "AngleBrace1.svg' file itself, just the "All_Parts_Laid_Out.svg" file. It's minor, but probably adds unnecessary complexity to the tool paths generated for this part using this consolidated file.

-mrfugu

In the BOM I don't see a source for the motor mounts. Anyone have a suggestion where these can be acquired?

The measurements seem to have an opening of 28x40mm

Just curious and confused.
http://www.maslowcnc.com/store/z-axis
Middle picture
https://static1.squarespace.com/static/57e561e720099e0d7a7f6aca/58276a5bf7e0ab81d3e577ae/589a5e20bf629ac702e0b122/1486596219084/Sideways.jpg?format=750w

The front arms file goes to a sharp point. This is the point that sits on the top of the sheet of plywood and points horizontally. When cut out in plywood the point just chips away. This also creates a weak point that is easily broken during the building of the arms. I suggest rounding this point, perhaps a 1" radius?

Hey guys,

We did not receive any Motor brackets with our package, and so we are looking for the dimensions in order to make it ourselves. We looked at the files located at

"https://github.com/MaslowCNC/Mechanics/tree/master/Hardware"

but they don't seem to open in SketchUp web version or the Sketchup viewer. The error message says

"This does not appear to be a Sketchup Model!"

Could these files be updated so that we can retrieve the dimensions to make it ourselves?

Thanks

Hi, is the BOM the official specs of the parts used? I'd like to know the makes and specs for the motors and encoders. Thanks

The stock frame has a measurable amount of flex in it which is becoming an important factor in calibration.

What is the easiest way to reduce the amount of flex in an existing frame while changing it the least amount?

The cutouts to allow the arms to have interior right angles where the motor plates mount need to be made larger for 1/4 inch bits

MakerCam and InkScape don't seem to find an outline in the file. Was it created from the appropriate view?

Need to renumber.

We are cutting designs into 6x4 sheets of 6mm ply. The designs are 6" x 6" max and the cutouts are removed to create a lattice effect. There are two of the designs where the initial plunge through the material is about 2 mm off leaving noticeable "dings". We intend to experiment with 2 mm tabs at the relevant places and by inserting bulges into the svgs which will be manually finished later.

The panel svg was set up using Inkscape v9 and the nc file generated in Krabzcam which as far as I can see is an excellent replacement for Makercam

Hi All please help me out, one of the motors is always running in the same direction, if i push up it goes up, if i push down it goes again up. and if i let it go to center it is every time somewhere else, and doesn't stop anywhere. what do i need to do...

I was able to avoid removing most of the temporary frame (including all of the electronics, motors, etc) by taking a few precautionary steps along the way. I have also avoided adding the additional arm facades, as I know my arms are both 20" out at 45 degrees. I may revisit this at a later time, but it saved quite a bit of work and lots of recalibration time not having to deal with tearing everything apart.

1. Unplug anything that could move
2. Detach the sled (and z-axis if you have one), and use the pins to keep the chain attached on the gears (as close to the gear as possible).
3. Unhook the bungees from the tensioners, and safely remove and store the tensioners/hooks/gears.
4. unscrew the lower temporary legs as per the instructions
5. measure and screw the 2 6" blocks to the back/top of the frame.
6. build the permanent legs and mount per the instructions
7. simply hook back up the tensioners and remove the pins from the chain.

I figured this may save someone else some time, but being an "unofficial" hack, I'm adding it here.

There is not an SVG file for the bracket that holds the bricks onto the sled, and there should be.

this is NOT an issue, just need to host image file for new wiki page I made, couldn't figure out any other wayt to do this.

What are your requirements for the motor?

• RPM at shaft
• Running torque
• Min effective CRP at shaft

Shame on me for not going through the step of verifying - the All parts laid out SVG is missing the back piece of the arms, as well the two middle angle braces(the non-triangular ones). Also missing the SVG for those individual parts.

For non-beta users a measured diagram with all plywood and 2x4 parts numbered would be very helpful(speaking as someone who used to help with flat pack assembled furniture instructions!). I'll be winging it with scraps and likely using my jigsaw for the back arm piece, as I'd started disassembling my temporary frame before realizing that I was missing things.

There is a broken link to a picture at the bottom of the Z-Axis wiki page.

There is a picture of attaching a bungee cord to the router to take care of the slop and give more consistent cuts. The picture was, as far as I can tell, originally posted to the forum. There was a request to add it to the wiki, which was done, but the picture that was linked to has since rotted.

In general, maybe there should be a policy of linking, as much as possible, to pictures internal to the repo to avoid this type of link rot? Could we add an 'img' folder somewhere so that the wiki can use that to point to images it needs?

While it seems that there several posts asking if there are ways to make the operation of the Maslow CNC work in a more vertical orientation, it seems that a better solution might be to mount the frame directly to the wall with hinges at the top. The bottom would be pulled outward (and braced in this position for machining) and when machining is finished, the frame is rotated flat against the wall. This could eliminate a lot of framing, saving money, fabrication time and significantly reducing the storage space when the unit is not in use. Has anyone worked on a concept such as this, and would anyone like to work on such a solution?

The precision of the cnc machines can be influenced by dimensional changes caused by moisture and temperature fluctuations, the flatness of the bed, and the stiffness of the frame. It might be possible to increase the stiffness and stability of the frame by using a grid of 1"x 4" between 2 external layers (one front and one on back) of 1/4" hardboard sheets, which are flatter and cheaper than plywood. This composite frame could be formed by gluing and screwing parts together, and the screws could then be completely removed after the glue has set, eliminating every possibility of hitting a screw during machining. A sacrificial sheet, could be used in front of the machine frame to avoid damage to the frame when machining. Has anyone worked on a composite frame of this type, and would anyone like to work on such a solution?

Please add a note to step 18, that the height the chain is attached to the sled should match the center of gravity of the router/sled assembly. This may need to be adjusted for cutting very thick or thin materials.

Hey,

In running down the best solutions for reducing 'slop' in the Z-axis on the default system I think we have a list of materials well suited as additions to the Z-axis kit:

These are all low cost parts and readily available in quantity.

see: https://forums.maslowcnc.com/t/z-axis-only-moving-the-router-some-of-the-time/133/16

https://www.mcmaster.com/#91545a330
1-3x washers, used to remove slop from the bottom of the router screw in conjunction with retaining ring.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#98398a120
1-2x retaining ring, to replace/spares factory retaining ring, is possible to damage while placing washers.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#76445a743
12-18"x low friction tape. 3x router spindle body length. evenly spaced around router circumference

https://www.mcmaster.com/#12205t55
6x rubber bands. Works in conjunction with split-ring to apply down pressure on router in sleeve, between split ring and handle bolts.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#90905a659
1x split ring. sits on top of router head to hold rubber bands in place above router.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-1-2-in-x-3-8-in-x-5-8-in-Nylon-Spacers/3012447
2x nylon spacers super glued on either side of router height adjustment flange. provides torsion stability to router part assembly:

(640963002) Depth Interlock Lever
(671758001) Depth Compression Spring
(513396001) Depth Interlocking Lever Tab

Can someone please tell me which port to plug the Z-Axis cable too.

Can someone please post a picture of the mounting of their Z-Axis.

Suggestions on the best way to remove the knob and dial on a Ridgid R2200 router.

Re; https://github.com/MaslowCNC/Mechanics/wiki/More-Photos
Bar, your page with the Bosch router explains a lot and the pics are excellent but might be confusing to users. First, it doesn't include a specific model number. I managed to track it down by the nameplate pic but there might still be oddities. These manufacturers build tools with different features and varying part numbers, and sometimes different features/numbers for different world regions.
Second, more importantly, is that the first pic might be misleading. That router is AAMOF the only one I've seen that has 'fixed base adjustable height' AND plunge style 'travel stops' features. It does that by giving the adjustment rod a latch mechanism that slips into the rotating 'stops wheel.' A user might see that wheel, see it on another router, and not understand the lack of the notch at the bottom of the adjustment rod, and get a router that can't do what's needed.
I think those pics should be moved to the 'router reviews' page with an explanation that it's a 'dual style' router suitable for Maslow's needs but unusual/different from other routers.

On setup, the "measure chain" step kept pulling the chain until it stretched, the arms bent a lot and the motor eventually started to pull loose, if I didn't stop it I assume the motor would have burned out or torn loose. I beefed up the machine and now it's built like a tank.
With the other chain, as before, I manually pulled the chain so there was a bit of slack then started to measure again, following instructions exactly, but it still bent the arms. It stopped and went slack as it should but not in time, so now the other chain is stretched too. Both chains now skip on the teeth every time I try to do the test cut. One tooth is slightly chipped too as a result (not too bad). I have chain guides but it still slips due to the stretch. The motors simply did not turn off and slack when they should. The many youtube videos I watched have confirmed this.

I am reasonably good with machines but this has me near tears after many hours. Can I please get some new chains, this time I will just use a tape measure, the measurements from the machine pulling them tight didn't yield accurate results either.

I went through the setup many times since and looked at this from every angle and don't think it's something I did wrong. I have a small CNC and had no trouble with that at all. Bicycle chains stretch and those are thicker than this, I assume that is why others also sometimes have issues with skipping.
Please help, Thank you
Alain

I suggested in this video that we need to reduce the friction between the sled surface and the wood being cut.

In the video I suggested that we could reduce the friction by pocketing out some of the area under the sled. It has been pointed out (very correctly) that friction has more to do with the weight of the sled, than it does with the surface area so creating a pocket can't actually reduce the friction. I think there is still some room to play with the idea of pockets under the sled for either improved dust collection or to distribute the weight differently because drag toward the edges of the sled produces greater torque to twist the sled than drag near the center.

The two factors which affect friction are the coefficient of friction and the weight of the sled.

We can reduce the coefficient of friction by using a slippery material like nylon or HDPE to make our sleds. I think that's a fantastic idea, but since it's not available to everyone I'd like to look for other solutions in the meantime.

Reducing the weight of the sled is a good option. We don't really need to reduce the weight, only the force excreted by the sled on the material being cut, which we can control by adjusting the tilt of the machine. The current angle was decided back when we were using a much smaller less stable sled. I think our new larger sled could handle a much lower angle and still be stable.

Various .nc files incorrectly identified as nesC language by github/linguist.
Use .gitattributes file to override detection by markiing the file as 'generated code'.

When assembling the legs it can be hard to tell which way the braces go. This could be fixed by making them more distinct shapes than triangles.

I have one shoulder bolt that was bent when I received my order. Can you send another one or send me the info I would need to order one? Thanks