komar007 / gh60 Goto Github PK

Research if it causes any signal integrity problems and if it makes sense to do it.
Possible advantage: the back side of the board will look better, because matte solder mask requires post-processing which destroyed the mask on some traces (probably because they protruded from the board's surface) - ground pour should fix this problem.

The short right shift (when there is an Fn on the right) has no pads for an LED.

Decide about a USB connector which the fab can easily get and update the footprint accordingly.

Q1:why setting up an no-using page(led.sch)

Q2:and there is a bug here

Q3:why you draw something like P11-15 with no line connect it?same as led part(in led.sch)

btw:i use gh60-revC_plain

Route signals to the current headers with rows and cols.

Where there are switches close to each other, the LED pads which are common to 2 LEDs are centered. Make sure it's possible to put LEDs in both positions through the switch and still solder them easily to the board.

Check that there will be enough place to fit the expansion board in the case for the current position of the connector

Make sure the resistor leads won't interfere with horizontal bars in the plastic case!

Make sure they're correct and fit the plates well.

Namely: left shift (short version), backspace, ISO enter, short ANSI enter

It's too much to the left.

Add unconnected pads for DIY LED backlighting for every switch.

It would be nice to have connected leds under Fn buttons next to shifts. They could indicate the layer the keyboard is on for example.

Decide about OSHW logo placement. Update GH60 logo.

eliminate ugly holes and strays

Enlarge the board by a small bit so that there is more space between some stabilizer holes and board edges

Make sure this incompatibility with Poker won't cause problems connecting the cable in various cases.

Make sure labels don't overlap with holes and components after components have been moved.

Examine the board and check if the expansion connector will fit under the main board.

Choose a reset switch the fab can easily provide

Make sure no switches (except ISO enter) are rotated 90 degrees

Namely: right Fn, backspace, escape. These 3 could be connected to the expansion pins along with the WASD cluster.
Pros: connection on board, the user only solders a resistor; if the expansion port is required, no resistor is soldered
Cons: when the user wants backlighting on all switches, the traces to these 3 LEDs have to be cut.

Connect the WASD block to the controller with 4 resistors.

Put the reset switch in the center of the dipswitch window in the Poker case.

Move the top-left mounting hole so that the board is centered in the case.
Correct other slot-holes if necessary

After fixing #20 I noticed some headers may be too close to SMD diodes.
It's necessary to check this and move the diodes away.

The LED holes are currently too large and the pads are at the same time too thin. Current drill size is 1mm. 0.8128mm (32 mil) should be enough. This will enlarge the pad's annular ring by 0.1mm, which should be enough.

The LED resistors will be soldered by hand in many cases, so their annular rings should be larger, drill sizes can remain the same (0.8128mm).

The switch pads seem a little too large, but they're compliant with the specification, so they can remain as they are.