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I need to be able to power the StarLink High Performance Dish without the use of an AC/DC inverter.

Proposed Solution

A clear and concise description of what you want to happen.

Alternatives considered

A clear and concise description of any alternative solutions or features you've considered.

Additional context

@jon-dutch take:

You'll never be able to power that Meanwell power brick of a standard 12v system. Even with a LiFePo4 battery the best you can hope for is roughly ≈15vdc. Your best bet will be to make a small 24vdc battery back specifically for running the Starlink PoE. 320w is a lot of power, though, so it may be worthwhile to convert your whole house battery setup to 24v. The upside: don't need to change the wiring as you can use small awg wires for 24v systems. The downside, obviously, will be sorting out all the other stuff to run on 24v... If you use 4 batteries and run them in a 2s2p 24v system configuration, then you could probably pull 48v direct (running a specific circuit as 4s) just for the Starlink, and run everything else at 24v.

The backup camera reboots if the key moves from ACC to RUN.

To Reproduce
Steps to reproduce the behavior:

1. Configure the PowerSwitch to allow the ACC control input to manage the rear camera
2. With vehicle off, use the remote start to turn on the vehicle
3. Camera should boot normally
4. Use the key to turn the vehicle from OFF -> ON
5. Camera reboots

Expected behavior
Camera should stay on from remote start -> key on position

Additional context
@jon-dutch take:

For the backup camera system, I know ours runs either an internal battery or a capacitor pack, to maintain power when the key switches from ACC to Start.

Once the control wire for the Garmin PowerSwitch was tapped into the dome light harness for ACC functionality, the dome lights now stay on, very dim.

To Reproduce
Steps to reproduce the behavior:

1. With dome lights in the "OFF" position, turn on the vehicle
2. Observe dim lights

Expected behavior
Would still like functionality or control of PowerSwitch devices when the car starts.

Additional context
@jon-dutch take:

Dome light tapping. Modern cars may throw a fault because they are expecting a specific resistance from the standard bulb (similar issue to your Jeep turn signal issue). I'd try to find an alternate route for this, like using a timer circuit, as you suggested.

I'm adding 2 additional SONOS AMPs to my network this summer. The first for a newly constructed fire pit and the second for the recently buried trampoline (rock speakers). In planning out the wiring run, to make it from my existing rack in the basement and down another 100 feet to the back of the yard, I'm having to go with really large gauge wire, just to hit 100 feet (12 gauge). I'm wondering instead should I mount the AMPs in the garage or even better yet (still requires a 100 foot run), mount them in the back of the yard inside two enclosures:
https://altelix.com/altelix-enclosure-for-sonos-amp-apple-tv-amazon-echo-link-amp/

Also thinking of something like this, next to the posts around the fire pit for the Lutron Outdoor Plugs. Then painted black pipe up to the string lights.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003O85DHA?ref=emc_s_m_5_i_atc&th=1

Proposed Solution

1. Create a decorative board in the back of the yard, behind a bush of some kind, with two enclosures on it: https://altelix.com/altelix-enclosure-for-sonos-amp-apple-tv-amazon-echo-link-amp/
2. Run 2 x CAT 6 from the garage switch (pre-existing) to the two enclosures
3. Speaker wire run will be less than 20 feet in both cases.
4. Enclosure "should" protect the SONOS AMPs from damp.

Alternatives considered

1. Mount a new rack on the wall in the garage
2. Install a new switch and use existing Penn Elcom Sonos AMP shelves for the two amps
3. squeeze two 12/4 cables into a conduit and run to the back of the yard. Distance would be roughly 75 feet
4. I'm running conduit for the speaker wires on top of the 110v conduit for the lighting (Lutron Cassetta outdoor switches)

Additional Thoughts

• Enclosures are expensive and not NEMA rated, but have a gasket and a fan
• If enclosure fails it takes an expensive AMP with it
• Garage has a heater and is insulated but may still be humid in the summer
• Running 2 CAT 6 would be smaller than 2 12/4 runs

@jon-dutch?

At one point, strange smell wafted into the cabin that I suspect was based on every device port being in use. No heat issues or smoke but it was a funny smell.

To Reproduce

Steps to reproduce the behavior: n/a

Expected behavior

• Each row should be able to support 2 iPad type devices from a power draw.
• They should not share amperage to ensure fast charging for each USB plug.
• Plugs should be high quality, marine grade USB devices
• Should support both USB-A and USB-C ports

Additional context

@jon-dutch take:

USBs should probably be fused, but it sorta depends on the units. Some have over/under voltage protection but in, and may not necessarily need independent fusing.