qjhart / jeepster Goto Github PK

The wheel bearings for the rear wheels were very dirty, with old grease, and almost didn't move. These have been cleaned and repaired. One concern is the carrier bearings on the rear axle. These seem to be in considerably better shape.

Kaiser Willy's seems to indicate that the inner seal can sometimes leak, but ours seem to be in pretty good shape.

We are going to just try lubricating these parts and the

If we were to pull these, There is a 33-29 REAR AXLE SHAFT PULLER #C-637-B that supposedly fits the dana 23. This seems to be a pretty simple tool and maybe you could make your own with a simple pipe.

There are some comments, here, https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/cj3b_bulletin_board/t96-transmission-t4821-s20.html about the Jeepster's t96 transmission that seem to indicate that you can't use synthetic oil in them. I think that's what I used, I had better check that, they suggest using, https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FNJ65201 instead.

Here's a video on a side shifter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9qS8UkfY7A

There are three seats, all bench style. All seats are spring with horsehair and cotton. Every seat back is has an internal metal plate in the back. The backs all use a smaller gauge spring, and these have not held up well.

• Back Seat, ~44x20x5 (bottom) 44x20x4 (back),
• Driver Seat ~ 33x17x5 (bottom) , 33x22x5(back)
• Jump Seat ~17x17x5 (bottom), 17x22x5 (back)

These are from the Step By Step, first time instructions, this is for a jeep, but basically the same thing. However, that site now has this page as a legacy, so just in case the way back machine is broken, these are the steps.

We need to decide on the level of effort we want to
restore an old car

The driver's seat needs to have the original seat post locations rewelded onto the frame. Willys America was very helpful, and sent out pictures of the way they attach.

Here is a prototype of what needs to be added. Three legs need to be added to the frame. Every leg is a simple pipe that's pounded flat and bended for attachment to the car floor. There are only three since the front right rests directly on the floor (where it raises for the transmission).

Location	Picture
Front
Back Left
Back Right

Pictures from a Jeepster

Leg	Picture
The front right is in place, and helps us figure out the heights of the missing ones.
The front left, goes straight down.
Rear left slants back to where it joins
and the rear right is similar.

6 Volt to 12 Volt Conversion

At some point in the past, this car was converted to a 12V battery up it retained a regulator/generator setup. The information below documents the changes that I think happened in that conversion.

Ignition System

In the following figure (Fig 2). The original coil that came with the jeep (when we got it in 2015) had this additional ballast resistor included in the system. The Ballast resistor resistance goes up as the temperature increases, and allows a higher voltage to start a cold car.

However, the coil we replaced this with (Issue #6) Kaiser Willys #933160 Replacement Ignition Coil 12 volt, has an internal resistor, and so is wired as in Fig 1.

The distributor, ignition points, condenser, spark plugs and ignition wires do not have to be changed when converting to 12 volts.

Charging System

This jeepster has a 12 volt regulator in it. First, some information on the labeling of the regulator and generator terminals. This applies to both the 6 and 12 volt parts. The regulator has a "B", an "A", a "F" and aground terminal. The generator has an "A", a "F"and a ground terminal. These terminals may have slightly different names. "B" may be called "BAT" , "A" maybe called "G" or "GEN" and "F" may becalled "FLD". The ground terminal on the generator is usually a tapped hole that is adjacent to the other two terminals.

In our jeepster, we have this strange 12 regulator. The locations for the wiring is shown

Here is how the wiring should be

The wires connecting to the 6 volt regulator and generator will be as shown in figure 3. The positions of the terminals on the regulator and generator will most likely be different than I have shown in the drawing, so don't try to identify the terminals by their physical positions. If your 6 volt regulator or generator has any extra wires or components connected to its terminals, make sure these wires get reconnected to the proper terminals. The extra component you will encounter most often is an ignition condenser attached to the generator. The body of the condenser will be attached to the ground terminal ofthe generator and the condenser's wire will be attached to the A terminal of the generator. The condenser may have been installed afterthe Jeep left the factory to reduce the amount of static heard in an AM(medium wave broadcast) radio.

Additional Notes.

*Conversion Instructions Probably the most detailed instructions. This is pretty interesting, discussing using a headlight to test the system. This also discusses difference between 12 volt alternator and generator.

• Conversion Instructions, is quite good as well, maybe better for the diagram. Also, interesting stuff like how the ignition switch should be changed to allow the ignition resistor to be bypassed on startup.
• 6 volt vs. 12 volt. Kinda interesting because of discussions on 8 volt, electronic ignition, etc.

I'm trying to find a cheaper wheel option. Kaiser Willy's has their vintage tire but that really adds up with shipping. If you look at this vintage tire conversion chart, they say that 5.90 x 15 are equivalent to : 75 series P165/75R15 | 70 series P175/70R15, but instead if you look at Les Schwaub they say the tire is a 165/80R-15.

Looking at auto-catalog includes tire-sizes but they don't include the profile?

If you use 165/80, you get a side wall height of 5.2 in, and then a total wheel diameter of 25.4 in (vs 25.6 originally) This is only a 0.7% difference in diameter.

The original tires were 150mm / 90 or 150*.90 / 25.4 = or a 5.3 sidewall which should be a 25.6 diameter as specified. but closer to a 10% difference in wheel width.

The instructions for the wiring harness are very minimal.

High Beam

There are three wires that go to the high beam switch, and some that go to what they call the high beam terminal. We need to figure out what the terminals are on the high beam switch, and where the terminal is.

Looks like the easiest way to get off our rust is to use a simple solution of molasses and water. You can see a lot of examples online. Particularly, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZCFcxf5IBw. I've looked into it, and we can pick up molasses at a number of places, including http://www.maltproducts.com/contact.php which is in shingle springs. What I think we can do, is put a big enough tub in the space below the trampoline. We will need to figure out a tub however, although I have seen people make very heavy bags as well.

These Purchases should also be in gmail, tagged with jeepster.