I'm missing here SCAD/STL for PSU cover, can you add it?

The socket cutout on the PSU cover should be put on the rear, not on the right side. There's plenty of unused space on the back of the printer when it sits on a desk (due to the heatbed cables), so there's no reason to have the power plug waste additional space on the right.

Hi

Just wondering if the MK3 has the same parts as the MK2.5? My MK2 works wonderfully, but I would really like to use quieter fans like on the MK3 and MK2.5.

Thanks

When extruding the printer is quiet but when the print head is traveling the printer is loud, I have tried turning the travel speed down but it doesn't seem to work, maybe acceleration?

Is it possible to limit maximum acceleration and print head travel speed during silent mode?

The MMU .stl and .scad files are still the old design with two screws for the PINDA probe. I just received my MMU and wanted to print the latest spare parts. That's when I noticed the new design is missing.

Specifically, I'm referring to extruder-adaptor-mm.stl and extruder-adaptor-mm.scad in the Multi-Material-Upgrade branch.

LCD_cover.stl is full of duplicate faces that cause Simplify3D to see it as multiple parts and slice it as such.

Hi

There is no scad file for the LCD-support "arms" a and b.

I would like to make a shorter version of the arms (shorter in length) so that the printer fits into the Ikea LACK enclosure (50cm max) but you have to make walls so you are left with 49 cm at best and that is not enough as the cables from the heatbed also need space.

In short, if you would make the lcd-support arms not so long and around 1cm shorter it would solve the issue. But as i can not find the scad files i can not attempt to do that myself.

Thanks
Manuel

I have just see there are two x-carriage-back for the MK2.5 here :
https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3/tree/MK2.5/Printed-Parts/stl

is it done on purpose?

The nylon filament we have to insert on the RAMBo base could go too deep during build and damage cables inside the RAMBo base (during the build or later due to vibration). Nylon filament hole should be closed on the internal side of the RAMBo base.

The extruder body and cover models both have issues where holes don't go all the way through. This is true of both the SCAD files and the generated STLs currently in the repository. Increasing the Z-axis lengths of the appropriate cylinders in extruder-main.scad solves these problems.

Also, the bearing support shaft, which fits into the extruder idler, doesn't exist in the repository. However, it did come included with the Prusa i3 mk2 kit and is an essential part. I'd be happy to provide patches for both of these issues.

Edit: There's also an issue with the y-corners SCAD and STL. Some fixes attached.
prusa_fixes.zip

Hi Prusa team,

I was checking the new RAMBo covers that comes with MK2.5, looks like a nice "hidden" update! The new door is 2mm thinner (18mm instead of 20mm on MK2s) and the top hinge hole looks a bit different. I was then surprised to not see new hinges for MK2.5, are they missing?

Hole for extruder cables is too tight on both RAMBo base and cable clip. This might also damaged the extruder's cables.

Current hole radius is 5.5mm (with cable grips at 5mm). Radius should be at least rad 6mm (grips at 5.5mm), maybe 6.5mm (grips at 6mm).

nozzle-fan-mk3_1.zip
Lettering pokes into air chamber causing roughness, Increase $fn value to give smoother curves for better airflow?, increase slant in are above opening to force air in downward direction.

This will serve as a way to get direct communication with developers at Prusa Research, I need to talk to some developers over there about the development of the Prusa i3 MK2 3d printer.

The back screw, M3x30, for mounting the extruder to the x-carriage will actually bite into the extruder cover. This is because the distance is only 29mm. If you try to remove the extruder cover afterwards it takes some force to pry it off and also a challenge to replace. I modified the cover to include a small divot to accept the tip of the screw without tapping. But thought you would want to know to correct officially.

The scad file for the LCD cover appears to be missing from the scad directory.

On my first real attempt with Colorprint and a mid-print filament change - I ran into an issue where the extruder slipped when the printer automatically attempted to unload my first color of filament. The menu options available do not cover this scenario -- I could either proceed with the print, attempt to load filament a second time, or to extrude more filament (if the first color had not been purged yet.) A fourth item would be very helpful -- one that gave the option to try to unload the filament again. Since there is no way to access the printer's main menu screens while the filament change script is running, it didn't seem that there was any way to save the print.

any plans to upload that?

The rambo-base.stl in the MK2.5 branch (and in the STL package from the prusa website) is marked "R1", while the downloadable gcodes are "R2". Might it be that the gcodes are made from a local branch of STLs that's not yet pushed upstream?

I'm right now in the process of printing the 2.5 parts, and I don't want to use the gcode as it has all the Rambo parts and I only need this one.

G-code (downloaded from prusa website):

STL (downloaded from prusa website):

Thanks!

MK3, 3.2.0-RC2

I was about 4 hours into a print when I turned on stealth mode. Before it kicked in, I started lowering the print speed. The warning for stealth mode popped up and I clicked to dismiss the message. The LCD became a garbled mess, but moving the wheel changed the mess to other random characters. I thought the speed adjustment was being made, but I couldn't see it. I clicked to confirm and the printer reset. Then I received a message that a collision was detected. The printer homed X/Y, then lowered the Z into the print bed for about 2 seconds until I mashed the reset button.

I was wondering what the power supply screw hole sizes and placement are on the MK2 frame? I have an older Prusa frame and was looking to mount the newer power supply.

I discovered that Z rods are not parallel nor perpendicular to XY due to a misalignment of rod hole in z-axis-bottom and z-axis-top.

In z-axis-bottom you translate the cylinder by 3 in Y (line 45) :

translate([25+4.3,3,-1]) rotate([0,0,0]) cylinder(h = 50, r=4.125, $fn=15);

But in z-axis-top you translate the cylinder by 3.2 in Y (line 51) :

translate([25+4.3,3.2,-1]) rotate([0,0,0]) cylinder(h = 50, r=4.1, $fn=15);

The frame mounting holes are at the same position on both pieces and as well as on the frame. This means that the Y axis are closer to each other of 0.4mm on top in comparison to the bottom.

I could verify this by measuring my MK2s printer and by importing STL in Fusion 360. Here are the results in Fusion 360

z-axis-bottom compared to the most external frame mounting hole :

z-axis-top compared to the most external frame mounting hole :

Is it done on purpose or a bug?

Hi,
I have found a dimension error on the two parts Z-axis-bottom-right and -left that should be fixed.
The console is 0.5 mm too narrow and the Z-motors can not be mounted centered in the intended location.

The Z-screws will therefore lean relative to the Z-smooth-rod, which may cause operating problems.
Please, read a detailed description in my post "Fine tune your MK3 Z axis.

https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3-f30/fine-tune-your-mk3-z-axis-t13806.html

The PINDA_protector.stl is reportedly too big. Needs to be sliced at exactly 96%. The SCAD file is also missing, so it's not possible to check where's the error.

Also check here:
http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk2-f23/mk2-p-i-n-d-a-protector-woes-t1663.html

The filament should, according to me, have a completely straight path through the Exrtuder unit.
When I check the MK3 extruder, it seems that the extruder motor is seated 0.5 mm laterally.

This means that the filament must be bent slightly to pass the engine's Bondtech pulley.
The center distance between the two Bontech wheels should be 9 mm and the center distance is determined by the two gear wheels (module 0.5).

The Bondtech gears can not be pushed together so it is a risk that you twist the extruder idler if is tightened too much.
The measurements are taken from Prusas download files.

https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3-f30/fine-tune-your-e-axis-t13930.html

Any idea when the MK3 power supply electronics base SCAD source files will be up ? I want to get it modified for rear-exit of the NEMA-15 like I did for the MK2/MK2S, so it will be ready when my kit arrives :)

Thanks,

-=dave

During the build of my MK2.5 I had the same issue as lot of other users, impossible to put the shaft in.

I suggest to use same technique as pushfit_rod module from x-ends.scad for this hole.

It would be nice to have this option, especially for printing at night when the screen can be very bright

I got MK3 printer and I see that some if not most parts there have label. According to documentation, those labels are the file version used to print.
Parts are labeled as Ax or Bx, where x is the number. As i see in repo the labeling is Rx.
In general the purpose of it is if I buy new kit and I want to be updated to the latest version of printed parts - I would be able to determine which ones I need to print instead of reprinting everything.

I've been going through the STL's to print some spare parts, and I noticed that the STL's don't match the current scad.

I can't load any prusa mk2 or mk2s stl into slic3r 1.2.9 nor Symplify3d 3.1.1.
Slic3r "stops working" and Simplify3d says "Part appears to be extremely small and may be in inches format..." and says it's loaded but I can't see it.
The dragon from thingverse loads just fine in both. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:600550

for the past week, I have been getting an indication on the LCD screen saying "Sleep..." Right after the first layer completes. This is not interfering with the process though.

I am currently printing with PETG at 90° on the bed and 140° all the nozzle. The fan is off on layer 1, and 50% after that.

I have included the log file
prusa.log

I have also uploaded to YouTube video demonstrating problem
https://youtu.be/mKG9ZuC5s7I

The part has a design problem so the first layer doesn't print well. There's a big cutout, then it's covered on subsequent layers.

A problem with current belt drive is that it does not run parallel to the horizontal plane.
That means two problems.
1)
When the belt is angled from the horizontal plane, the transport distance of the E unit will be slightly shorter than would be the case if the belt was completely horizontal.
This can be easily demonstrated with Pythagore's formula where the E device transports along the hypotenuse instead of the opposite katete, which would be optimal.
2)
In case of rapid movements, small strain vibrations can occur that affect the result of the printed surface.
This is because the belt must also be moved vertically up and down quickly. This does not occur if the belts are completely horizontal.

Please, see a detailed description of both my posts regarding Fine tune MK3, X- and the Y-axis.

https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3-f30/fine-tune-your-mk3-x-axis-t13853.html
https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3-f30/fine-tune-your-mk3-y-axis-t13851.html

I'd like to see an option to disable the Display automatically switching back to the info screen after a few seconds or at least an option to increase the timeout.

It's pretty annoying if you're in the move axis menu for example, working on the extruder moving the axis via the menu and the next time you need to move the axis again it's back at the start screen.

On MK2.5/MK3 extruder, it is very hard to remove hotend if you need to do some maintenance on the PTFE tube (for example). This was much easier on MK2s extruder

Hi!

The stl for the spool holder doesn't match the one that comes with the printer. It doesn't have holes in it to save plastic when printing out. Also, there are not two versions for each side of it, just one. These problems are also seemly present in the scad file, considering the dxf doesn't have the holes and there are no comments in the scad file to get right-left version.

Hi,

the named file cannot be placed on the bed because the smaller part is not in the same Z level as the bigger part, it is printed in the air instead in first layer. Also the STL could be rotated, so that it ready for printing immediately.

Regards

Hello Prusa,

I noticed the following behavior:

When the nozzle heats up, the material is oozing out of the nozzle. This is normal due to heating. Note: I'm using the prusa profiles and material so everything should be ok in the temp. regard.

So before the 9 calibration recheck, i have to manually remove the oozed out filament to not mess up the calibration point recheck.

It would be easy i assume to put in a little gcode to wipe the nozzle a bit before the calibration recheck starts. Also a little retraction milli seconds before the calibration touches the bed will help. This way the ozzing while the check is minimised and the print is not messed up.

What do you think ?

Thanks!

should there not be files for the mk52 bed and the frame dxf files?

On this picture :

The bottom-right hole as a rounded pocket hole for the nut. On MK3 design this one as a polygon hole.

Fix for the file 4355e47 :

1. Delete lines 91 to 93
2. add this line after line 55 :
   translate([0,7.5,8]) rotate([0,0,0]) cylinder(h = 4, r1=3.15, r2=5, $fn=6);
3. Line 83 should be replaced by :
   translate([0,7.5,5.7]) cylinder(h = 4, r=3.15, $fn=6);

The extruder-body.stl (MK3) is upside down for good printing (the flat section is at the top)

Thanks

PROBLEM:
If printer is started at an ambient temperature below 15 degrees Celsius it immediately triggers MINTEMP error on both the bed and hotend, even before any attempts to heat the bed or hotend.
This is because MINTEMP is set at 15 degrees in the firmware settings(usually 5 degrees on other printers). MINTEMP is a thermal runaway protection since a faulty thermistor usually sends a low value and should trigger a shutdown of the heater to prevent thermal runaway.
This also means that the printer can not be used at ambient temperatures below 15 degrees.

SUGGESTION:
No need to trigger MINTEMP error if the heater isn't enabled, thermal runaway isn't an issue when the heater is disabled.
When starting Preheat of the printer disable MINTEMP error for x amount of time to enable the bed and hotend to reach temperatures over 15 degrees.
Alternately add an option somewhere to trigger power to the bed and hotend for 10 seconds manually(overriding the MINTEMP error). That way you can manually add bursts of power to get the heat up.

I managed to clog my printer by accidentally pressing unload filament before the printer had reached the preheat temperature for the material I was using (PLA). This caused filament to get stuck in the nozzle further up and I had to take the print head apart to fix it.

Maybe add in a control to say only allow unload filament unload once printer has reached preheat temperature

I'm using 3.0.8

The new spool holder can apparently break rather easily, so people may need to print replacements.

Can you please provide the exact Slic3r settings for the Spool-holder.stl, e.g., print settings, number of perimeters, infill, etc. to match the original. Is the original made of PET?

(The new spool holder will not only fit on the MK3 but also e.g., on the MK2S.)

Ordered an MK3 (can't wait) but I wanted to change the color of the button and can't seem to find the SLT. Thanks

The Y motor holder is a bit flimsy and bends, reducing tension and misaligning the belt. It should be integrated with the Y-distance part from the start, and come with 3 screw points instead of 2.

I'm trying to get quoted for printing the MK42 headbed but all the PCB companies i've contacted so far tell me the files that I gave them wont help them. Can you please off the gerber files that you gave your PCB Supplier?

When a color change is executed and you select "yes" to continue, the nozzle will immediately extrude ~40mm filament into mid-air and then move to the print. I believe the offending section of GCode is this:

M600
G1 E0.80000 F2100.00000

I see no reason for the extrusion after the color change, and if one does not catch it and pull it off before printing resumes, the filament strand will embed in the print.