Force-Feedback-TPR

VPForce FFB Mod for Thrustmaster TPR Rudder Pedals

These parts are for converting your Thrustmaster TPR pedals with a 86BLF03 kit from https://vpforcecontrols.com. The mod does not permanently change anything on the pedals, there is no cutting, and you could revert it back to original stock if desired. The geometry of the cable run is set up so that it will not go slack in any position. Now, i made my parts out of aluminum and did the tensioning a bit different but have redesigned them slightly so that they can be 3d printed as well. It might work, You'll just have to try it. If you can make them with aluminum even better. The motor pulley should definitely be metal of some kind though. NOTE - TPR_pulley_0.9 is just a bit smaller in diameter, made from 1" round stock. This is probably the better pulley to make, as it will use more of the motor range and be a bit stronger. My 86BLF03 can push each foot with about 20lbf/9kgf so be sure to bolt the pedals down relative to your chair.

This will take some DIY skills, it's not print-and-be-done, but it's close.

Some of the parts used:

1 - 86BLF03 x1 (or 86BLF04 x1) DIY Kit from https://vpforcecontrols.com

1 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013ETVO12 24V 350W power supply

2 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077K7KNX9 pack of 2

2 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COCQ06 pack of 2

1 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079J6YYPC each

2 - https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/90220A130 each

4 - https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/91920A710 each

2 - https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/2705T132 each

4 - https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/92510A765 each

4 - https://www.mcmaster.com/8920N36/ each

8 - https://www.mcmaster.com/91294A212/ (box of 100)

4 - https://www.mcmaster.com/91290A252/ (box of 50)

2 - https://www.mcmaster.com/94105A534/ (box of 50)

2 - https://www.mcmaster.com/91294A253/ (box of 25)

2 - https://www.mcmaster.com/94645A205/ (box of 100)

Assembly steps:

Remove the spring system from the rear of the TPR's. There are 4 M5 flatheads holding it onto the back, Remove the bottom end of the links to the original teeter arm (save the pins, plastic bushings, e-clips)
Open up the electronics area on the back, remove the wire going to the teeter hall sensor
The original teeter has a hinge pin and long bolt, you will need it, disassemble from spring assembly.
Make sure you know where the center of rotation is on the motor. Hook it up, set endpoints at 0 to 4096 and turn on the spring. mark the shaft and base with a sharpie so you can line them up when unpowered.
Assemble the motor to the plate, and add the long spacers. Put the back plate on loosely so you can slip in the teeter hinge pin into its counterbores. You'll want to have 2 or 3 spacer washers on each side of the teeter. Press in new hinge bushings into the teeter.
With the teeter in place, fully clamp together the long spacers. Use the original long bolt thru the teeter hinge tube.
Add the pulleys and spacers to each side
Screw in the bolts with the vent hole all the way down into the teeter arm. we will be raising them up to tension the cable later. If using a 3d print, you might want to also use some thin 1/4-20 nuts so the thread doesnt strip out.
This is the tricky part- the cable. It's thick, and resistant to bends, and might take 3 or 4 hands to get it wrapped right. also clip off the ball on the end but be careful not to let it unravel too much. pass it thru the hole in the motor pulley so half remains on each side. without letting the pulley spin (power it up or use a allen key to stop it) wind 2 wraps toward the motor and then to a pulley and up thru the vented arm bolt. put on a cable stop to keep it there. careful! letting go at any time and it all unwinds. do the same on the other side, but go away from the motor. see pics on how it should look
Center up the motor to your sharpie marks. tighten/loosen the cable stops so that the arm is level with the motor centered. alternate from side to side, making it tighter each time. make sure the wrap on the pulley isn't crossing over itself.
fully tighten the cable stops with a wrench. then, raise each vented bolt to really tension the cable. It should almost guitar-string-tight.
FFB unit is done! Now just mount it to the back of the TPR. It'll be best to use a ball-end hex wrench to get to some of the bolts, thru the holes in the front plate.
Transfer over the link bushings and pins from the original teeter arm.
Print the USB Box & Lid, mount the kit USB board inside and wire up.
Install VPForce Configurator and the WIP version of VPForce TelemFFB.
enjoy!
These instructions and models provided as-is. DIY!