The Philips CD-i 450/550 has a weird PSU (Type 20 PS 301/XX, 20PS301, 22ER9156). It uses an RJ45 jack to connect to the console.

Everybody familiar with ethernet cables knows the plastic tab on an RJ45 plug will snap off sooner or later. Then the plug will become loose and start falling out of the jack. While it might not be that devastating on a network connection, it is unacceptable for a power connection. Not to mention that over the decades, some consoles were separated from their original PSU, and replacements are expensive while supplies being limited.

This adapter utilizes TWO Center-Positive 5V power adapters, with the plug dimension of 5.50mm OD (0.217") and 2.10mm ID (0.083").

Do NOT use a Y-adapter with a single power source or your adapter will short and die.

The one on the left requires 3.3A (16.5W). I call this the "beefy" one.

The one on the right is a weak one that any 5V adapter you can find will be more than capable to handle the job.

These power rating specs are the lowest requirements. You can go higher but not lower.

Use a straight RJ45 ethernet cable in short length. The wiring order on the two ends of the cable should be exactly the same or bad things will happen. It's easy to test with a meter if visual inspection is difficult.

Plug everything in and use the power switch on the CD-i itself to turn the power on/off.

• PCB - Link
• [2x] PJ-002A Barrel Jack, OD 5.50mm / ID 2.10mm - Link
• 1705951 RJ45 Ethernet Jack, Female - Link
• J104A2C5VDC.40S General Purpose Relay, DPDT, 5V/3A - Link
• M3x20mm hex screw and nut - Link
• 3D Printed Case - Link

Optional Parts

• 1N4148W Diode, SMD - Link (for possible extending lifespan of relay coil)
• LEDs for power state indication
  • Two of each color, with their respective current limiting resistor (0805 size or smaller)
  • Typical LED forward voltage range from 2V to 3.2V. 100-150 Ohm resistors is a good choice.

• "Beefy" WSU050-4000, 5V/20W, OD5.5mm/ID2.1mm, Triad Power Adapter - Link
• WSU050-1500, 5V/7.5W OD5.5mm/ID2.1mm, Triad Power Adapter - Link (but really, any 5V adapter will do)

Print the parts as shown in the following pics, with support.

Populate the PCB with parts. Trim the extra length of extruding legs but no need to go crazy.

D1 and D2 are for standby and D3 and D4 are for running. Choose your colors accordingly.

If in case one side does not light up, please check your power sources first as there might be a serious problem.

Fit into the bottom shell. Close the top shell over.

Drop the nut inside the cavity, then tighten the screwn from the bottom.

Drop in the top lid inside, fit one side in position first, then press and snap the other side into the slot.

This concludes the assembly.

• Retrostuff (for suggesting various technical details about the Philips CD-i)
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Shield:

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