atovproject / 16n-atovproject-rework Goto Github PK

The two standoff holes near the vertical center of the pcb do not match the holes in the panel. Note that the bottom standoff hole is in the right place (as are the holes for the jacks). It's just the two other standoff holes that are misplaced. I found this out after having boards made using the Eagle files in the repo and getting a panel from someone who used the files in the repo. The holes in the panel had to be redrilled to match (since there is a trace too close to the hole in the pcb to widen that hole). The image below overlays the PCB and the front panel BRD files...

Can you put some text in the description about how the midi switch is set up? The original board had K and A written on it for the two swtich positions - Korg and Arturia Beatstep, i.e. MIDI A and MIDI B. Which position is which? One of the positions has hash marks under it - is that MIDI A / Korg?

Hi and thanks for the amazing project.

I'm trying to get familiar with the whole process of designing a board, ordering it online (including assembly of smd parts) then finishing the build by manually soldering the bigger parts, looking to replicate this project, and if I ever find a way to improve it (hardware or firmware) I would gladly contribute the changes back.

Very tiny nitpick though is that the kits seem to be at version 1.5 yet the files here still show 1.4. Is there any significant difference between the two? Would you mind if possible publishing the 1.5 version?

Thanks in advance!

Please make it possible to output 14-bit midi over USB.

CC / CC+ 32 fashion is OK

I found an example here: https://madskjeldgaard.dk/posts/14bit-midi-teensy-supercollider/

I don't need NRPN, only the "fine adjustment" allready in the conventional MIDI controller specification, where any of the first 32 controls can be optionally paired with a control offset 32 higher.

It could just use fixed CC's {0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15} and {32,33,34,35,36,37,38,39,40,41,42,43,44,45,46,47} - that's all I need.

I could probably make the hack myself - but would prefer it being part of the official firmware.

Cheers,
Jens Peter

PS: I bought the kit from Exploding Shed last week - Is it possible to buy only the case + a blank front panel with just the six mounting holes? I would like to build another box like the 16n-AtoVproject-rework, with 2 joysticks and some buttons.

The 4 corner holes for the case files are in the wrong place. The image below overlays the pcb, the front panel, and the DXF for the laser cut case. The little grey ticks are the hole positions for the case - you can see how they don't line up with the front panel slots.
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I found this after laser cutting using the SVG file. All parts fit together well, but the mounting holes are misplaced. This problem is independent of the material thickness - the problem is that the holes do not line up with the front panel holes (which are based on Eurorack standards).