Wemos V4 about ispindel HOT 10 CLOSED

I wouldn't be surprised if it works fine with the BAT43 as per the V3. Give it a bash I guess and see how is goes.

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@thegreatgunbantoad Sounds good, I’ll go ahead with the build and include the diode. Should hopefully have everything here after the holidays, will update this with my findings so anyone forward doesn’t run into issues.

@ErikdBr Yep that’s what I assume, their Aliexpress store does not even have them for sale. Just knockoffs is all I can see available.

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@ErikdBr Yep that’s what I assume, their Aliexpress >store does not even have them for sale. Just >knockoffs is all I can see available.

Please don't buy the knockoffs they're usually sheit.

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@porschepete With the 470 resistor you could not get a reliable wake up from a deep sleep. Here are alot of discussions about this issue , you can search for issues like "iSpindel sends its data only once", "iSpindel not always sends data" etc

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Finally got everything in the mail and all soldered up. Happy to report that everything seems to be working correctly so far, flashed without issue (using Linux) and deep sleep seems to be working correctly. Only time will tell with next batch to be sure but I am going to close this issue for now.

An interesting quirk of the v4 is the lack of an input diode to remove. If anyone has a sacrificial v4 they can remove the USB-C socket from, it'd be interesting to see the traces underneath to figure out a workaround.

@PharmaJap Correct, there does not appear to be any input diode present looking and the board and schematics of the V4. I did not want to sacrifice a board quite yet, just make sure not to plug into the Wemos with a battery installed.

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I guess V3.1 is EOL. https://www.wemos.cc/en/latest/d1/d1_mini.html

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@ErikdBr Yep that’s what I’ve read, I have the official V4s D1 minis on the way. Just wanted to make sure that new resistor they put in doesn’t cause any issues.

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@ErikdBr Yep that’s what I assume, their Aliexpress >store does not even have them for sale. Just >knockoffs is all I can see available.

Please don't buy the knockoffs they're usually sheit.

For a long time that's all you could get. They tend to either work or not, they don't tend to fail down the line. But still get the legit stuff if you can, the fakers shouldn't be given money. When I first started you just couldn't source the real stuff, glad they now have a store.

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I've just ordered some of the V4 (as all the V3 Pros I ordered have been shite).

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I don't see a need to remove the resistor, as long as the jumper remains open? Just bridge with a BAT43 at the through-hole, unless I'm missing something?

An interesting quirk of the v4 is the lack of an input diode to remove. If anyone has a sacrificial v4 they can remove the USB-C socket from, it'd be interesting to see the traces underneath to figure out a workaround.

from ispindel.